JewelLoop · Interactive explainer

Precious metal colours, measured

Gold by karat and colour, plus platinum, palladium and silver. Every colour here comes from published spectrophotometer measurements, not from a colour picker.

Drag to turn the rings

Compare two colours

Light

ΔE*ab measures how different two colours look. As a rough guide, around 1 is the smallest difference most people notice side by side. Comparisons across the two measurement studies are approximate.

Every metal, by karat

18K and 14K colours are the ISO 8654 standard colours (nominal values, D65 light, 10° observer). 24K, 22K, 9K, white gold, platinum, palladium, silver and rhodium plating are measured samples from Henderson and Manchanda's study for the Birmingham Assay Office (illuminant C, 2° observer). Colour is defined by measurement, not by recipe: finish, annealing, plating and work-hardening all shift the colour of a finished piece. Tap a card to show it on the left ring.

Why the cards look pale: a flat swatch shows the colour as an instrument measures it, under perfectly even light. Polished gold looks deeper and richer because it mirrors dark and bright surroundings, which is what the rings above show with the same values.

Is my alloy in standard?

Each shape is the tolerance zone the standard allows around a colour (a* is green to red, b* is blue to yellow); lightness L* has its own range. Enter a spectrophotometer reading of your polished sample, measured with D65 light and a 10° observer, specular included.

A screen can't show these tolerances reliably; a measurement can. Instruments set to a 2° observer read slightly different numbers, which the standard covers in its main tables.

Silver against copper

In gold–silver–copper alloys, silver pulls the colour towards green-yellow and copper towards red. Slide between the standard recipes to see the colour move. In-between colours are interpolated from the neighbouring standards, a guide rather than a measurement.

GoldSilverCopper

White gold is graded differently

White gold has no N code. It is graded by Yellowness Index (ASTM D1925), the scheme proposed by the British White Gold Task Force and adopted with the MJSA and World Gold Council: the lower the number, the whiter the alloy and the less it relies on rhodium plating.

Each swatch is a real alloy measured in the study (illuminant C, 2° observer, specular included). For comparison, rhodium plating measures 6.8, fine silver 8.4, platinum 10.9 and palladium 13.6 on the same index.

Sources

  1. ISO 8654:2018/Amd 1:2019, Jewellery: Colours of gold alloys, Annex B: Tables B.1–B.3, nominal values and tolerances with a 10° observer.
  2. Argor-Heraeus SA, patent US 2020/0392605 A1: colour names 0N–6N as listed in ISO 8654; measurement conditions (D65, specular included).
  3. Progold, The colour of gold alloys (AIM 2004): informative compositions for 0N–5N; colour defined by coordinates, not composition.
  4. Cretu and van der Lingen, Coloured Gold Alloys, Gold Bulletin 32(4), 1999 (silver towards green, copper towards red).
  5. Henderson (Cookson Precious Metals) and Manchanda (Birmingham Assay Office), White Gold Alloys: Colour Measurement and Grading, Gold Bulletin 38/2, 2005: measured CIELab and Yellowness Index for fine gold, 22K, 9K, white golds, platinum, palladium, fine silver and rhodium; grade bands (illuminant C, 2° observer).
  6. MJSA and World Gold Council, White Gold Color Index, via Ganoksin.